Original Story Published by: Tom Hilton for Tadele Travel
Tom Hilton joined us in Lalibela to experience the celebration of Easter—or Fasika as it’s known locally. Here he generously shares his impressions of his time in Ethiopia’s New Jerusalem.
“I had been to Lalibela once before, but was eager to bring a group of friends to show them the wonders of the rock-hewn churches and stunning landscapes for themselves. Lalibela has to be seen to be believed. This time would be particularly special, however, as we were visiting at Easter—one of the most sacred times of year in the Ethiopian Orthodox calendar.
In the days leading up to Easter, the devout of Lalibela are fasting – although ironically, for the visitor, this makes Ethiopian dining even more delicious, as wonderful vegetarian options abound. Our group shared countless beyaynetu platters – a variety of vegetarian dishes served up with the traditional enjera. Once the fasting was over, we longed for this otherwise hard-to-find dish!
Meanwhile, on the day before Easter, a chaotic market is underway in the centre of Lalibela—an abundance of spices, coffee, and, crucially, goats. The locals bid for goats to take away and prepare for Easter feasts as they break their fast in the middle of the night. We pick our way through the crowds, a surprisingly orderly and welcoming affair that will be gone without a trace by morning.
In the afternoon, we tour the churches – a breath-taking spectacle and incredible feat of architecture. As you make your way through the complex, your mind struggles to comprehend the visionary craftsmanship that took place here almost a thousand years ago, whilst silent worshippers, shrouded in white, continue to drift between the churches today. On the Easter weekend, there is a feeling of something special to come as the sun begins to go down.
